October 23, 2013 § 3 Comments
Waterstones have put a free project download from the Mollie Makes Crochet book on their website, and it just happens to be the monster Kindle cover I designed – yay! It turns out that Waterstones have a hidden treasure-trove of craft projects hidden away in the ‘Waterstones Card’ section of their website. For a direct link to the project pdf, click on the image above.
I love this little guy, he was such fun to make! He is one of a set of three monster gadget covers and some Russian dolls I made for the book – see my previous post, Mollie Makes Crochet Book.
October 21, 2013 § 6 Comments
I love crochet edgings! They’re quick and easy to do and add a lovely hand-made touch to something a little bit ordinary. When I was designing these edgings for Issue 11 of Simply Crochet magazine, I was mindful of the fact that edgings are sometimes a bit of a faff to do. Very often you know how long the edging needs to be, but if you’re following an edging pattern that starts with a foundation chain, the chain itself isn’t a very reliable guide to how long the finished edging piece will turn out. Foundation chains are notoriously fickle, and once you’ve worked a few rows, the finished piece can turn out quite a different length from the original chain because the tension of the chain, and the tension of rows of stitches, varies quite a bit.
One of the solutions to this problem is to work a foundation chain quite a bit longer than you think you will need, because it’s a relatively easy job to unpick the extra chains that aren’t needed after you’ve worked a couple of rows. This was the instruction I gave for a couple of the edgings above, but the one on the outside of the image is worked using a different method. Instead of making a chain as long as the edging needs to be, the pattern is written to be worked back and forth in short rows, so you can adjust the length to fit as you work.
I thought I’d try and come up with some more patterns like this that are ‘back and forth’ edgings, worked in short rows. Here are three more designs, with the most straightforward one at the top.
For all of these edgings I used DMC Petra #3, and a 2.5mm (US B/1 or C/2 hook). UK crochet terms are used throughout.
This first one’s nice and simple to work. It would be an interesting way of starting off a piece of work too, because you could then rotate the edging and work into the row of chain spaces along the long edge:
Ch6 and ss into the first ch to join into a ring.
Row 1 (RS) Ch4 (counts as first dtr), 3dtr into ring, ch4, 4dtr into ring, turn. [8 dtr, ch-4 sp]
Row 2 Ch3 (counts as first tr), (3tr, ch3, 3tr) into ch-4 sp, tr into top of beg ch-4, turn. [8 tr, ch-4 sp]
Row 3 Ch4 (counts as first dtr), (4dtr into ring, ch4, 4dtr) into ch-4 sp, turn. [9 dtr, ch-4 sp]
Repeat Rows 2 and 3 until your edging is the desired length, fasten off and weave in ends.
You could add more colours to this edging by threading lengths of chain through the spaces along the long straight edge, or do the same with narrow ribbon:
Row 1 (RS) 4dc beg in second ch from hook, turn. [4 dc]
Row 2 Ch1 (does not count as st), 4dc, turn.
Row 3 Ch4 (counts as tr, ch1), skip st at base of ch, tr in next st, ch1, skip next st, tr in next st, ch3, rotate 90 degrees to work in sp created by tr just worked, tr4tog with first 3 ‘legs’ in space created by tr, and last leg in end of last row of dc, turn. [3 tr, 2 ch-1 sp, ch3, tr4tog]
Row 4 Ch3, ss in top of tr4tog from previous row, ch4, skip ch-3 from previous row, (dc in next tr, dc in next ch-1 sp) twice, turn leaving top of turning ch unworked. [ch-3 picot, ch-4, 4 dc]
Row 5 Ch4 (counts as tr, ch1), skip st at base of ch, tr in next st, ch1, skip next st, tr in next st, turn. [5 sts]
Row 6 Ch1 (does not count as st), dc in each of next 4 sts, turn, leaving top of turning ch unworked. [4 sts]
Rows 7 and 8 As Rows 3 and 4.
Repeat Rows 5-8 until edging is the desired length, fasten off and weave in ends.
This is my favourite because it’s so well behaved! I like the way the trebles without any turning chain make a neat firm edge along the top, and of the three this one is most suited to working around curves like a neckline because there is a bit of ‘give’ in it. Incidentally, in the first image above I shot it from the wrong side, so I’ve flipped the image below to match the chart and the direction of working.
Row 1 (WS) 4dc beginning in second ch from hook, turn. [4 dc]
Row 2 (RS) Ch1 (does not count as st), 2dc, ch4, tr in next dc, ch4, tr around post of last tr worked, turn. [2 dc, 2 tr, 2 ch-4 sp]
Row 3 Ss into first ch-4 sp, ch4, ss into same ch-4 sp, ch4, dc in next ch-4 sp, ch1, tr in each of next 2 dc, turn. [2 ch-4 sp, dc, ch-1 sp, 2 tr]
Row 4 Ch1 (does not count as st), 2dc, ch4, tr in ch-1 sp, ch4, tr around post of last tr worked, turn. [2 dc, 2 tr, 2 ch-4 sp]
Row 5 Ss into first ch-4 sp, ch4, ss into same ch-4 sp, ch4, dc in next ch-4 sp, ch1, tr in each of next 2 dc, turn. [2 ch-4 sp, dc, ch-1 sp, 2 tr]
Repeat Rows 4 and 5 until edging is desired length, fasten off and weave in ends.
October 14, 2013 § 7 Comments
This post is otherwise known as ‘getting a bit further beyond trial and error’! Whenever I sit down to start shaping part of an amigurumi figure, there is always a certain amount of undoing and re-doing that goes on. I have in mind the shape I am trying to achieve, but there is often more luck than judgement involved as to whether it will turn out as I expected on the first attempt, and sometimes even the second, or third….
The basic technical points are these, as will be familiar to anyone who has done a little amigurumi-type crochet. If you start working in the round with double crochet (US single crochet), and increase by 6 stitches evenly every round, then you will end up with a flat circle. If you start with 6 stitches and work evenly on those 6 stitches without any increasing or decreasing, you will have a tube. In between those two extremes, if you increase by the same number of stitches every round, choosing a number between 1 and 5, you will get a cone. So if you increase by only 1 stitch every round you will get a narrower cone (closer to the tube), and if you increase by 5 stitches every round you will get a much wider cone (closer to the flat circle). If you need to brush up on the basics, try this Basic Guide to Amigurumi Part 1, and Basic Guide to Amigurumi Part 2.
I know this in theory, but what I want to be able to do is to visualise what a ‘1-stitch’ cone looks like, and what a ‘3-stitch’ cone looks like. In my mind they always translate into various kinds of hat, as that is often what I am making when I want to form a cone! Is this a wizard hat (narrow and pointy), a gnome hat (slightly less pointy), or an Asian-style rice hat (altogether much flatter)? Now this isn’t rocket science, but it occurred to me that if I make versions of all these cones then I can use them for reference later, and I will be able to judge what kind of gradient each number of increases will give me.
For each cone I worked 8 rounds. For the 1-stitch cone I started with 6 sts into a magic loop. You could always start with fewer stitches than this for a more pointy-ended cone, but any fewer than 4 is tricky to work with. Each round is listed on the picture, with the total number of stitches at the end of the round in red.
And the 3-stitch. The maths tells me that this should be half-way between the tube and the flat circle. If you folded a flat circle in half you would get a semi-circle with 180 degrees angle at the top, and the 3-stitch cone, being half way to this has an angle of approx. 90 degrees at the top:
These are the three I think I would use most often for ‘hat-type’ shapes, so these are the ones I have written out in full. Here are all the cones from 1-stitch to 5-stitch together. Looking at the gradients for the larger cones could help in trying to judge increases on more complicated shapes, even if they weren’t used as often as cones. A note about the 4-stitch and 5-stitch cones; it’s difficult to start a 4-stitch and a 5-stitch increase round from a base of 6 sts, as I used for the others. Guess what? Start with 4 stitches in the first round of the 4-stitch cone and 5 stitches for the first round of the 5-stitch cone. Easy!
October 8, 2013 § Leave a comment
Well, Part 2 was a little longer coming than I had hoped for, but better late than never! I posted a pattern for a Hedgehog purse last week, based on the pattern I had used in Simply Crochet magazine. This was for the basic hedgehog, but I thought it would be fun to come up with a few alternatives. Here is girly hedgehog, complete with fetching ribbon and bow:
I used some Gold DMC embroidery thread – all six strands, and worked some double crochet stitches half way around one ring, a few chain stitches and then the same in the other ring. A bit of red felt gives him a bow tie.
I also had an idea that the flap for the purse could be used as a flap for a pocket, say on a child’s garment. And it would be easy to turn the purse into a slightly bigger bag by attaching a longer chain and double crochet cord on the top:
September 30, 2013 § Leave a comment
Hot on the heels of Mr.Fox and Mr.Raccoon, here is Hedgehog, another variation on my foxy purse in Issue 10 of Simply Crochet. He’s a little more tricky than the Fox and Raccoon, but not much – it’s only his spines that require a bit more effort, and a bit of surface crochet worked onto the existing triangle shape. Again, you will need the pattern from Simply Crochet for the basic triangle shape, but of course, if you’re a crochet whizz, you’ll probably be able to work out how to do the shape for yourself! 😉
You will need to make 2 triangles in dark brown for the purse pocket (this is the shape given for the Head in the original Fox pattern), and below is the pattern for the hedgehog-y Head, to be used as the purse flap.
UK crochet terms used throughout.
With a 3.5mm (US E/4) hook and light brown DK yarn, follow the Head pattern of the Fox until the point where you dc along the top straight edge of the triangle. Fasten off the light brown yarn, and join dark brown DK into the first st of the top edge.
Row 1 (RS) Ch1 (does not count as st), work 1 row of double crochet evenly along the top straight edge, turn.
Row 2 Ch1 (does not count as st), dc in the front loop only of each st across, turn.
With the RS facing, you will now be able to see the remaining loops of each st from Row 1. Work each st of the following row in each of those loops:
Row 3 Ss in first loop, (ch6, ss in next loop) repeat to end of row, turn.
For the next row, you will be working in the dc stitches from Row 2:
Row 4 Ch1 (does not count as st), dc in the front loop only of each st across, turn.
Row 5 As Row 3, working in the remaining loops of each st from Row 2.
For the following two rows, you will be working across the central stitches of the head only. Calculate half of the number of stitches across the Head, and identify that number of stitches in the centre of the Head. For example, if there are 24 sts in your Row 4, half is 12, and in order to position those 12 sts centrally, you will need to skip the first 6 sts, work 12 sts, and skip the last 6 sts. If you have an odd number of sts it won’t quite work out evenly so as to be exactly symmetrical, but it won’t show on the finished Head. Either fasten off your dark brown yarn and rejoin it in the first st you will be working on the next row, or slip st in each st across to the point where you will begin working. Working this extra half row in the centre rounds off the shape of the Head a little bit, so that it isn’t so flat.
Rows 6 and 7 Repeat Rows 4 and 5 working on the central sts only, and working in the remaining loops of Row 4 for Row 7, fasten off and weave in ends.
At this point, you will have a light brown triangle with 2½ rows of chain loops for spines across the top. In order to round out the face, you need to work more spines on the light brown triangle. To do this, first work lines of slip stitch surface crochet as shown on the diagram below. Then repeat Row 3 to make the spines, inserting your hook underneath both strands of the ss loop on the surface of the triangle for each st.
Now all that remains is to add the eyes – I used small circles of white felt and tiny brown buttons – and a button for the nose. Coming in Part 2 – a host of hedgehog ideas!
September 23, 2013 § 10 Comments
In Issue 10 of Simply Crochet, there’s a foxy purse that I designed on p.85. I love doing fun things like this, and given my poor record at finishing projects, it’s nice to be able to do something that doesn’t take very long! If you’d like to see how to make him, you can buy an issue at My Favourite Magazines – this link is for the subscriptions page, but there is also a link top right of the central column for buying a single issue – or search the digital magazines page for Simply Crochet in your format of choice.
You will need the pattern from Simply Crochet to make the basic semi-circle shape, but instead of making 2 semi-circles for the purse pocket and 1 triangle for the flap, you will need to make 3 semi-circles in grey in total; 2 for the pocket and 1 for the flap. You will then need 2 ‘patches’ for the eyes, and 2 ears:
UK crochet terms used throughout.
Eye Patches (make 2)
With black DK yarn and a 3.5mm (US E/4) hook, ch5.
Row 1 Dc in second ch from hook, dc in each of next 2 ch, 3dc in next ch, dc in each of next 3 ch, turn. [9 sts]
Row 2 Ch1 (doesn’t count as st), 4dc, 3dc in next dc, 4dc, turn. [11 sts]
Row 3 Ch1 (doesn’t count as st), 5dc, 3dc in next dc, 2dc, 3htr, fasten off black, turn. [13 sts]
Row 4 Join white DK in first st, ch1 (doesn’t count as st), 6dc, 3dc in next dc, 6dc, turn. [15 sts]
Row 5 Ch1 (doesn’t count as st), 6dc, 2dc in next st, 1dc, 2dc in next st, 6dc. [17 sts]
Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing, and weave in starting end.
For the eyes, you can either embroider a circle using small chain stitches and white yarn with a black French knot in the centre, or use 2 small circles of white felt and a French knot in black. I cheated a bit in the photo because I couldn’t lay my hands on my scraps of white felt, so I used a bit of craft foam and made a dot in pen for the eyes.
When you sew the two patches to the flap, turn one over so that they will be symmetrical.
Ears (make 2)
With grey DK yarn and a 3.5mm (US E/4) hook, ch2.
Row 1 (RS) 3dc in the second ch from the hook, turn. [3 sts]
Row 2 Ch1 (doesn’t count as st), 2dc in each dc, turn. [6 sts]
Row 3 Ch1 (doesn’t count as st), (1dc, 2dc in next st) 3 times. [9 sts]
Fasten off, leaving a long tail, and weave in starting end.
Use the long tail to sew each ear to the top of the flap. With white DK yarn, ss around the outside edge of each ear, fasten off and weave in all ends.
Sew a black button centre bottom for the nose.
That’s him sorted! There may even be a Mr.Hedgehog to bring up the rear. I’ll keep you posted.
September 17, 2013 § Leave a comment
Before anyone wonders, I’m not announcing any births of my own! I’ve recently completed a picture for one of my nephews – a bit belatedly as you will see! I originally made one for both of my nieces (twins), when they were born nearly 3 years ago, and Adam is their elder brother. I hadn’t done one for Adam, and my sister-in-law asked me if I could complete the set, hence why it is so late after the event. It had to go with the other two I had done, and I also had a bit of a brief for this one, as Adam is now old enough to have developed some interests of his own. It had to include trains, bunnies, maps and possibly pipes. Pipes? Yes, plumbing-type pipes. I didn’t ask, but you know how young children can be sometimes ;-). This was a bit of a challenge, but I managed three out of the four. My No.1 son also contributed to this. He drew his own bunny picture – you can see him hiding behind the bush. The reason he is hiding behind the bush is because he was holding an orange carrot, and as orange did not exactly go with the colour scheme, the carrot had to be hidden somewhere…
The other two for Amy and Megan are below. These will be forever associated in my mind with the fact that I fell and broke my wrist on the way to collect them from the printer’s. No such mishaps this time fortunately!